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#21 stants

stants

Posted 06 July 2016 - 10:45 AM

Any idea if the heads will let you hit 300 as they are ?
That was the weak point of mine :unsure:

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#22 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 July 2016 - 05:28 PM

Andrew Carr had 340 or was it 320? Sure it was 340. Well past 300 anyway and Howard at HDC thought I was mental to question if I could get past 300 lol. I questioned cams with him and he was certain it wouldn't be an issue. He said with enough boost I'd probably not notice the difference. I suppose the term "with enough boost" is subjective lol but he was confident. And hey if I come just shy you already know what I'll do :) lol and then that would be a beast alongside the other mods :)

#23 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 06 July 2016 - 06:05 PM

Andrew Carr had 340 or was it 320? Sure it was 340. Well past 300 anyway 

The Foz he was telling me about t'other week whilst he was remapping mine (it was his tow car so might be a different one) only made upper 200s. BUT it had full boost on at 1900 rpm, and errrrm pulled rather well  :P

Besides which, whether you end up with 295 or 320 is less important IMHO than how available the power is. I'd rather have 280whp with 90% torque available between 2K and 6.5K than 350whp only available above 4K. Unless someone were to donate me a nice Modena sequential gearbox of course    :P


May the Foz be with you....


#24 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 July 2016 - 07:16 PM

The Foz he was telling me about t'other week whilst he was remapping mine (it was his tow car so might be a different one) only made upper 200s. BUT it had full boost on at 1900 rpm, and errrrm pulled rather well  :P
Besides which, whether you end up with 295 or 320 is less important IMHO than how available the power is. I'd rather have 280whp with 90% torque available between 2K and 6.5K than 350whp only available above 4K. Unless someone were to donate me a nice Modena sequential gearbox of course    :P

Thinking that's a different car mate or maybe he changed his setup. Certain Howard said 340. I clearly remember him saying that he was running a vf34 if that helps?

I suppose just shy of 300 with over 300 in torque would feel pretty rapid lol

#25 stockcar

stockcar
  • Locationthe grim north

Posted 06 July 2016 - 07:31 PM

modded a baby UK Foz years ago with an old rally abused VF24 , 3" exhaust, etc. and was easily into 330's................no issue with the basic engine set-up until your looking for far bigger numbers

 

generally speaking an IHI is a better spooling set-up than any TD series apart from a TD04 because its so small


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#26 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 06 July 2016 - 08:38 PM

Thinking that's a different car mate or maybe he changed his setup. Certain Howard said 340. I clearly remember him saying that he was running a vf34 if that helps?

I suppose just shy of 300 with over 300 in torque would feel pretty rapid lol

Aye it must be, because I remember him mentioning that the small turbo meant it ran out of beans at about 260...270 horses.


May the Foz be with you....


#27 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 July 2016 - 10:45 PM

modded a baby UK Foz years ago with an old rally abused VF24 , 3" exhaust, etc. and was easily into 330's................no issue with the basic engine set-up until your looking for far bigger numbers
 
generally speaking an IHI is a better spooling set-up than any TD series apart from a TD04 because its so small

This is encouraging thanks:)

Re the turbos from what I've read I'd have to agree but they are so much more expensive and a pain when it comes to a rebuild. And the td05's have good pull to the end. If my other mods mean it can still spool reasonably early then maybe it's a winner. I dunno I'm torn. Part of me thinks just wait longer and shell out for a vf but then my other part thinks no way the td05 is cheaper easily rebuilt and proven to pull hard and produce good numbers.

For goodness sake I'm more at a loss than ever lol

#28 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 07 July 2016 - 09:23 AM

As before I'd say let Andrew Carr's advice sway your decision. Not only will he (like any good mapper) have vast experience of different configs of engine, turbo + exhaust, but in the end it'll be up to him to get your setup working well.


May the Foz be with you....


#29 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 07 July 2016 - 11:19 AM

As before I'd say let Andrew Carr's advice sway your decision. Not only will he (like any good mapper) have vast experience of different configs of engine, turbo + exhaust, but in the end it'll be up to him to get your setup working well.

Excellent advice as always :)
Email sent! For my own crap memory I'm making a note here that I sent it from my work email so I know which one to check lmao.

#30 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 10 July 2016 - 07:07 PM

Got a response from Andrew Carr

"Hi,

Turbo choice on the Forester engine is slightly different from the Impreza due to higher CR and softer cams. Essentially you need a bigger turbo to make the same power on a Forester compared with a similarly modified Impreza.

My first choice would be a VF34, then a VF28/29, VF30 is also worth a look. I wouldn't consider a cheap TD05 from eBay, a genuine TD05-16G is a good turbo but doesn't give the same drivability as a VF.

I would also remove the TGVs from the inlet manifold."

So there we have it guys, Tgv delete. Anybody done it or got some solid advice? Personally I'm thinking just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else in place as that would avoid any running issues with the ECU and he can then unplug and delete them when mapping.

But any other views or opinions? It's not something I know much aabout as I hadn't considered it.

Thanks

#31 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 11 July 2016 - 12:08 PM

Bump for tgv advice

#32 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:14 PM

Do a search - there's articles on NASIOC etc. on how to DIY. Or (as per usual!) talk to Howard @ HDC if you don't feel guilty about bothering him again - he mentioned it last time I was in there, IIRC he said it can give a small power gain.


May the Foz be with you....


#33 stants

stants

Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:14 PM

Don't think it's that hard but it's not easy either lol, can you find an intake which doesn't have them and just swap over save getting it off stripped removed and ported etc?
Had a look over in foz.org ?

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#34 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:57 PM

Not worried about doing it. Its people who have done it or advice or notes from those who have that I was after. Its easy to do and no need for the porting, polishing etc. The only restriction is the flap and to an extent the bar. The upper cross piece is actually meant to stay in there as it helps with atomising/mixing the fuel more effectively than just dumping a jet of it in. And the rougher casting rather than smooth is actually meant to offer an advantage. There is also nothing to be made from trying to gasket match anything.

My main concern is how the car will function between doing the mod and getting the remap. Like, would it still be drivable. Some say you get cel's but nothing else. Some say you go into limp mode. Obviously limp mode is not good for a daily driver lol.

I'm personally thinking that if I just grind the back off the retaining screws and remove the flappers and leave the bar and motors and sensors in place it should flow plenty for my power aspirations and avoid any issues with cel lights plus be basically a free mod minus gaskets and injector o rings. Free is good lol.

On the other hand I could just buy a RCM tgv delete manifold and have them mapped out. I would consider that option for sure if I knew that the car would still be drivable before I got the remap. Or cheaper than that buy one of the tgv delete kits I've seen for sale in america that just bolts covers over the holes in the ends where the actuators and sensors where. Tested to 80psi apparently and cost about $60 which is about £40 I think :)

#35 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 11 July 2016 - 05:14 PM

This also begs the question......

If the manifold coming off what else is worth doing whilst I'm there?
Throttle heater bypass. Definitely.
Bigger injectors? Does the forester have 440's, google time.
What else????
Uprate the air inlet pipe from airbox to turbo? Is there even an aftermarket part that retains the maf?
Anything else? Ahhh, the never ending joys of emptying ones wallet hahahahaha

#36 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 11 July 2016 - 06:58 PM

My main concern is how the car will function between doing the mod and getting the remap. Like, would it still be drivable. Some say you get cel's but nothing else. Some say you go into limp mode. Obviously limp mode is not good for a daily driver lol.
I'm personally thinking that if I just grind the back off the retaining screws and remove the flappers and leave the bar and motors and sensors in place it should flow plenty for my power aspirations and avoid any issues with cel lights plus be basically a free mod minus gaskets and injector o rings. Free is good lol.

Another option if it's just for a short time might be to fit a TGV delete kit but keep the actuator motors  connected e.g. stuffed in a cubby hole wrapped up out of the way until your remap. My guess is that if the motors are still in circuit the ECU won't get upset.

And whilst you have the manifold off, do check the fuel hoses underneath for tightness - that way if we get a cold winter you'll be sure to not get fuel dribbling all over the block like I did  :shok:


May the Foz be with you....


#37 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 11 July 2016 - 07:09 PM

Another option if it's just for a short time might be to fit a TGV delete kit but keep the actuator motors  connected e.g. stuffed in a cubby hole wrapped up out of the way until your remap. My guess is that if the motors are still in circuit the ECU won't get upset.

From what I gather it doesn't work like that. The motor sits on one end and the sensor on the other. The motor moves the flaps, obviously, and the sensor, well senses, the position of the bar/flaps. If the sensor and motor position don't match it throws a code.

I mean I couldn't give a monkeys about a light on the dashboard so I'd live with it till mapping but obviously if it throws into limp, well then I'm screwed

#38 stants

stants

Posted 12 July 2016 - 11:11 AM

Thermal inlet spacers while it's off ?

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#39 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 12 July 2016 - 01:39 PM

Phenolic spacers. Arnt they a bit of a snake oil product?

In fact I think I've seen some tgv manifolds that were plastic or plastic like. It mentioned the heat thing. Interesting thought I'll see what google digs up thanks

#40 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 12 July 2016 - 01:50 PM

Mr Carr has spoken....

"Hi,

MY01-05 STi manifold has no TGVs just empty lower manifold bodies, this is the best way to remove them IMO.


Missing TGV sensors and actuators is not a critical fault, you will get a CEL but no restriction in performance."

So there you have it folks. All systems go WOOP WOOP. Anyone got an sti manifold knocking about lol. Google here we come...... Again

Oh just as a heads up re Andrew Carr. He had a reputation of being hard to contact and I have some solid advice on the matter. If you contact him via email using anything other than the contact button on the teamcarr website your in for a wait, even if your replying back to a message he sent you lol. He replies from his personal email you see. BUT if you always go to the website and click on contact and email him from there (different email address) you get a reply usually in under 24hrs. Top tips :)




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