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Radiator / coolant spray


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#1 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 05 May 2016 - 06:03 PM

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Well as you can see ive been spraying coolant under the bonnet and it seems as if the culprit is the top hose of the radiator, drivers side. You can see the dried coolant over other things and its worst on that side and you can see from the other pics that some of it has migrated accross to the other side of the radiator pressumably just because of the force its come out with.

 

Right, this has only happened (that ive noticed) after some very hard driving. I fitted the boost gauge today so obviousley ive been giving it the beans a lot trying to hit different boost figures with and without the gheto boost mod and trying to figure out if the car is boosting as it should. But thats a different subject.

 

When the car is boiling hot should i be getting coolant flowing from the overflow pipe back into the fill reservior? Because im not and that pipe isnt hot either like the others. Im not getting any bubbles in the fill tank that i can see and i pulled the overflow pipe up out of the fill tank to check if it was circulating coolant and as i said, its not.

 

Car isnt overheating or even running above half way on the guage and shows no other signs of being unwell but this is obviousley an issue and one i need to get on top of before it kills the engine so help please guys im sure one of you knows the crack. Cheers :)

 

 

 

 

 



#2 stants

stants

Posted 05 May 2016 - 10:05 PM

May have read this wrong, but the expansion tank is full at hot ? What's the level at cold ? Maybe an airlock
The rads are crap could be a pin hole in the top of rad,

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#3 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 05 May 2016 - 10:50 PM

May have read this wrong, but the expansion tank is full at hot ? What's the level at cold ? Maybe an airlock
The rads are crap could be a pin hole in the top of rad,

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1 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 000 rep points to you my friend. Absolutly nailed it.

Just waiting for the phone to charge back up so can get the pics off it but yup, found a teeny tiny split about 8mm long in the top of the rad right in front of that top hose. Its right where you can see the coolant has gathered in the second from last picture i already posted. Only found it as i was trying to wiggle the top hose to test the seal only to low and behold see coolant appear as if by magic thru the radiator itself.

 

Just gone and got the car hot and the leak does indeed get worse so ive mixed up some plastic friendly epoxy, cleaned up the area and waited for it to cool enough to not be forcing coolant out of the slit and coated it with the epoxy. The radiator is still very warm so it should speed up the drying process nicely so fingers crossed i should be good to go by morning. I need to use the car in the morning so i'll know for sure early on anyway.

 

And yes it does seem to be working corectly and filling the expansion tank when hot and then emptying it again when cold. Will double check tomorrow.



#4 stants

stants

Posted 06 May 2016 - 06:03 AM

Ah good news ish, Least you've found the cause and it's not too bad, the stock rads are absolute cack, been through two on mine in 4 years, there are some nice alloy ones available, but are nearly twice the price, how ever given that a subaru one from ipc are around a ton it makes sense, to spend a little extra and never have to worry about it again,

Unfortunately last time mine went it happened at work and needed one next day so didn't have the luxury of being able to upgrade

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#5 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 May 2016 - 06:47 AM

Wasn't aware of the problems with em. Think upgrade sounds best. Go see if my repair has hardened soon so fingers crossed :)

#6 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 May 2016 - 05:01 PM

WEll the repair seems ok for now. I'm a bit worried as to why there so much pressure to balloon the radiator tho!
I've bought a new 1.1 bar header tank cap just in case the old cap had gone bad and wasn't allowing the overflow to work when needed.

I have a question for you all. When I'm driving without the heaters turned on, just for clarification I mean with them set to off, I am getting warm air blown into the cabin. Presumably warm air from under the bonnet getting pushed into the cabin. But why? Is that in anyway normal? Bloody annoying like

Cheers

#7 BansteadStig

BansteadStig

Posted 06 May 2016 - 05:25 PM

If it's the original radiator it's done very well, so I shouldn't worry too much about there being anything more sinister at play.

#8 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 06 May 2016 - 07:40 PM

Well thats a fair statement, if it is the original. I'll have a look thru its folder tonight.

 

Anybody want to comment on............

        "When I'm driving without the heaters turned on, just for clarification I mean with them set to off, I am getting warm air blown into the cabin. Presumably warm air from under the bonnet getting pushed into the cabin. But why? Is that in anyway normal? Bloody annoying like"

 

Thanks



#9 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 08 May 2016 - 08:45 AM

Bump......

"When I'm driving without the heaters turned on, just for clarification I mean with them set to off, I am getting warm air blown into the cabin. Presumably warm air from under the bonnet getting pushed into the cabin. But why? Is that in anyway normal? Bloody annoying like"

#10 stants

stants

Posted 08 May 2016 - 05:02 PM

Is it with the full control 'on' or just when you hit the button above the fan switch so circulate the air ?
My understanding is for any lower Temps than 18° you need to run with the ac on

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#11 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 08 May 2016 - 08:47 PM

Bump......

"When I'm driving without the heaters turned on, just for clarification I mean with them set to off, I am getting warm air blown into the cabin. Presumably warm air from under the bonnet getting pushed into the cabin. But why? Is that in anyway normal? Bloody annoying like"

Is this with the fan turned off?? Obviously if you've set the dial to less than the external air temp (or want it less than the external air temp) the only way you'll get that is with AC as Stants says. Do post a pic of your dials if it will help clarify your question. Also be aware that with the temp. dial set to 18deg, it may well be running 2...3 deg. hotter, seems to be a feature of the system.


May the Foz be with you....


#12 Blastertrev

Blastertrev
  • LocationSunny Cumbria (NOT)

Posted 09 May 2016 - 12:36 PM

Just a thought, are you saying that it ALWAYS blows hot air???? In that case it could be that the AC needs re-gassing, I had a similar problem on my old Leggy, there's a pressure switch that checks the gas pressure, if it's too low it seems to seriously upset the HVAC system and gives you the option of hot or hot. 


May the Foz be with you....


#13 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 10 May 2016 - 02:55 PM

Hi guys try post pic later but I mean with the air system (couldn't think of another way to put it) turned completely off. Like not lit up not on recirculating, not on a/c. On nothing at all. Just off.

With the a/c on it works perfect. Icy cold or red hot when desired. No issues at all with the system in use but when it's all turned completely off I get warm air pushed through the vents. If the weathers nice I prefer to have the system turned off and the windows down and roof open but I'm still getting warm air into the cabin which is unpleasant when the weathers warm.

#14 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 10 June 2016 - 02:51 AM

Been on icp and can't see a radiator listed for mine? Also mishimoto don't seem to do one for the 03 xt only 04 onwards and I can't find a definite on eBay or in fact anywhere :-(
So can anybody recommend or point me in the direction of an ally radiator? I'm going to give HDC a ring and speak to Howard but I either forget or am too busy. Need to get this job done, it's going to catch me out soon if I'm not careful.

My shopping list is.....
Radiator.
New hose kit preferably silicone I reckon.
Water pump.
Thermostat.

Right. What should I be aware of?
What else should I buy or do I need? Gaskets etc? Other parts I should replace at same time?
Anything particularly challenging about this task?
Should thermostat be oem only? Or should I get a cool running one?
Should I perform some type of flush of the system before putting on new rad and filling?
Is there a preferred type of coolant? Stick to oem or go aftermarket cos it's better?


Lots of questions I know but I ll be doing the job myself so I'd prefer it to go smoothly and get done properly

Cheers guys

#15 stants

stants

Posted 10 June 2016 - 12:10 PM

If your doing the water pump the cam belt will have to come off so may be worth putting a new one on for peace of mind, possibly tensioners etc

Wouldn't bother with a cool running one,
System flush just do it with a hosepipe and let it run for ages,

Maybe look at water less coolant too

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#16 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 10 June 2016 - 01:05 PM

It's only got 25k on cambelt and I don't know how easy they are to mess up? Is it a specialist tools job? No cool running one, ok :) you do remember I plan to push 300 outa the engine yeah? But hey I know you know what your on about bud and it's cheaper too by looks of things lol so win win.

Thanks for hosepipe tip, didn't think of that lol. And waterless coolant? Actually never heard of it so another great tip cheers :)

#17 stants

stants

Posted 10 June 2016 - 05:51 PM

You'll need to lock one side of the cams so they don't drop out of time when you remove the belt, you can get the tools from the bay,

Is the pump on its way out or original ? Could have been changed at last belt interval ?
A couple of mechanics I know say the pumps will go on forever and it's not really necessary to change them at every Belt change, unless your tracking the car regularly I'd speak to Howard for a 2nd opinion on that though,

From what I've read the cool running stats are a bit of hit and miss affair, some people reckon they do more harm than good, by not allowing the engine to get up to 'full' operating temperature before the regular one would open,

Waterless is supposed to be better as it has no water to break down over time or corrode any of the internals, it's also ment to last a lifetime, don't hold me to that though either !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361306738093

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#18 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 10 June 2016 - 11:38 PM

Thanks mate really good info :)
Found cambelt locking tool http://www.ebay.co.u...tm/151613542871 £22 now this might be a stupid question but do I need to buy two of the tools so I can lock the cams on both sides of the engine?

And that coolant is expensive man!! Lol. Like the idea tho. Don't suppose your mad ninja skills know of an ally radiator for the 03sg? Drawn a totall blank thinking I might have to go for a standard one

#19 dnok

dnok
  • LocationElland West Yorkshire

Posted 11 June 2016 - 12:19 AM

The more I think about this the more cost effective getting Howard at HDC to do a full service is sounding and just have him replace the radiator while he's at it.

I'd pay £22-25 for cam lock tool then £35-40 for crank pulley tool. He only charges £35 an hour and he's mega good. I'm thinking bite the bullet and have him do radiator, new pipes, spark plugs, engine oil, oil filter, transmission oils, water pump, air filter etc.

Either that or I might go the diy route and just do radiator and pipes myself then send it to Howard when I fit the tuning goodies and have him do all that I listed above (minus radiator of course) plus fit new turbo etc etc and just have it all done in a nice cost effective oner

#20 BansteadStig

BansteadStig

Posted 11 June 2016 - 06:27 AM

£35 an hour is unbelievably cheap compared to South East prices.

I think I live in the wrong area. Pretty sure my salary isn't augmented that much living round here!




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